Still Waters Run Deep

I think this title may be a little misleading, for the river that runs past our little stone-built cottage is neither deep nor that still.  However, it isn’t like the raging rapids that surge through my other secret valley, the one in my beloved Exmoor.  I guess it falls somewhere between the two – perhaps the title should be Still Glides the Stream after the poem by Wordsworth for the water, for much of its course through the valley, does seem to glide rather than flow.

The river seems to glide past our little stone house rather than flow
The river in my other secret valley in the Exmoor National Park is more like a raging torrent

‘Our’ Cotswold river, the Glyme, starts its course in the hills above the town of Chipping Norton.  There is no big fanfare to announce its rising from the ground, instead there is a marshy bit of land and a trickle of water.  How surprising it is to think that this is the source of our drinking water and mill wheel power, as well as two beautiful, landscaped lakes created in the 18th century by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown.  One of these lakes is at Kiddington Hall where, when I first moved to live in this area, I was employed as Head Gardener.  Another of the lakes is at Blenheim Palace in Woodstock, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of relatively few Grade 1 listed gardens in the UK.  By the time the water has reached these it has flown past our little stone cottage and threaded its way around the series of meanders, the photo of which I use as my blog header.

There is no big fanfare to tell you that this is the start of a most beautiful river
The Italianate gardens at Kiddington Hall at the time I was Head Gardener. They overlook the river

Nature abounds along the whole length of the river.  At its headwaters on a series of natural terraces an abundance of rare wildflowers grow including the rare native Salvia pratense, more usually thought of as a deservedly popular garden plant.  On the banks around our house and elsewhere, orchids can be found as can, on dryer spots, diminutive wild thyme (see my earlier blog, I know a bank where the wild thyme grows).  In the river both native White-clawed Crayfish and their larger, hungrier cousins American Crayfish thrive, the latter crowding out the former which are now restricted to the higher reaches.  Trout and pike can be caught (although the private fishing rights are jealously guarded) and the much smaller minnows – ‘tiddlers’ to us as children, stickleback and Miller’s Thumb fish are also present.

Purple spikes of the rare Salvia pratense growing amongst a myriad of other wild flowers by the headwaters of the River Glyme
A trio of wild river trout

It isn’t just flowers and fish that frequent the river for many of the larger mammals live by or near it – four of the six species of wild deer in England roam here: Fallow, Roe, Muntjac and Chinese Water Deer.  Roe are native, whereas Fallow were reputedly introduced by the Romans two thousand years ago; the Muntjac and Water Deer are more recent introductions.  Badger, Fox and Otter are shy, mostly nocturnal and so are rarely seen other than by the lucky few.  Fortunately, I have been one of them!  Birdsong, especially at this time of the year, announce the many different species that visit or breed here: Red Kite, Spotted Flycatcher, Kingfisher, Little Egret being just a few of my favourites.

Otters frequent the river but are shy and rarely seen
Red Kite, once hunted to near extinction are now a common sight along the course of the river

After Kiddington Hall, the river continues to wind its way through the villages of Glympton and Wootton where it is joined by the even smaller River Dorn.  A mile upstream of that river is where we stabled our horses and like our own valley, it is secluded and not much frequented despite being very pretty.  The Glyme next enters Blenheim Park, and as mentioned earlier, the river has been dammed and landscaped to create the palace’s Queen Pool and Lake.  From there it cascades into the larger River Evenlode which in turn flows into the Thames a few miles from Oxford.

The River Dorn, a tributary of the Glyme, snakes its way through the hils
The lake at Blenheim Palace created by the waters of the Glyme

Human settlement around the banks of the Glyme didn’t just start with the Romans.  Evidence of much earlier Britons can be found all along its length.  Perhaps one of the most prominent, yet weirdly more often overlooked, is the hoar stone in the village of Enstone.  Perhaps the reason for this is that by tradition the Old Soldier, as it is known, takes himself off to the river when thirsty to have a drink (see my blog post on the Old Soldier here).  This may well be true for, despite the stones’ huge size, I have often gone past it only later to realise that I hadn’t actually noticed it being there!  Further downstream there are earthworks known as Grim’s Ditch, a series of banks and ditches that probably served as boundary markers.  When the ditch was being created some 3000 years ago, the Old Soldier was already 2000 years old. I rather like the thought that living and working on the land I and am part of an unbroken chain that dates back five millennia or more.

The Old Soldier, now 5000 years old
This insignificant looking little bridge marks the place where Akeman Street, a road built by the Romans, crosses the River Glyme

Footnote:
i) Still Glides the Stream is from William Wordsworth sonnet, written in the early 1800s – “….Still glides the stream, and shall forever glide….”
ii) Still Waters Run Deep: a proverb dating from the early 1400s or even earlier. Modern use refers to great passion hiding behind quietness. Originally it suggested that silence often hid danger and Shakespeare (who else!) picks up on this theme in Henry IV – “…smooth runs the water where the brook is deep….show he harbours treason….”

Woodstock and Blenheim Palace

Woodstock, a small town in the Oxfordshire Cotswolds, has a long history.  The Domesday Book, a survey of England & Wales completed in 1086, describes it as a Royal Forest – a hunting preserve for nobility.  Fifty years later the area was enclosed by a high wall, a shooting lodge built, and exotic animals, lions and leopards kept within. Just short of a century later, in 1179, King Henry II built Woodstock Palace and granted a Royal Charter that established a market on its boundary.  From thereon, the town developed and prospered.  The palace witnessed several important moments in English history including the imprisonment of the then Princess Elizabeth who became Queen Elizabeth the First, and later, it sheltered King James I who had fled London during a plague.  By 1653 the Palace had been destroyed by the Roundheads (Parliamentarians) during the English Civil War.

The original palace at Woodstock built by Henry II in 1179 [Source:Wikipedia]

The ruins of the palace and its parkland were gifted by the nation to the 1st Duke of Marlborough in recognition of his military triumphs that climaxed with the Battle of Blenheim in 1704.  Blenheim Palace, for which Woodstock is now justly famed and visited annually by thousands from all over the world, was built in its place and, with over 180 rooms, it is one of the largest privately-owned houses in England.  The birthplace (in 1874) and ancestral home of wartime leader, Sir Winston Churchill, the splendour and history of the Palace was recognised as an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

Blenheim Palace, one of the largest private houses in England

With mixed financial fortunes over the centuries, the Palace has seen many changes both internally and externally.  The parkland was much altered by the eighteenth-century landscape architect, Capability Brown.  The River Glyme that runs through the park was dammed and the Great Lake formed, in the process part-drowning the enormous bridge designed by Vanbrugh.  Incidentally, the river is the same one as the little winding river that flows in ‘our (now not so secret!) secret valley’ and used in the header of this blog.

The dammed tiny River Glyme created the Great Lake at Blenheim Palace…
…in the process, the huge bridge designed by Vanbrugh was partly submerged

Despite the centuries that have passed, the town still clusters outside the entrance to Blenheim Palace.  Being so small (only 3,500 people live here), it is a great place to explore on foot – something that is missed by most visitors to the Palace who, if they enter the town at all, stay within the two shop-lined streets at its centre.  Behind these lie the church and quaint, timbered houses.

Ancient houses overhang the narrow streets of Woodstock
All the old house and cottages differ from one another in appearance

Of course, it is the Palace that dominates Woodstock despite being barely visible from outside the Park.  The entrance that cars and coaches enter by, is splendid enough, but doesn’t match the grandeur of the town gate.  Just past the ‘tourist’ entrance (and so rarely noticed) are the splendid almshouses built in 1798 by Catherine, Duchess of Marlborough.  A visit to the Woodstock Museum should be on everyone’s agenda too; it contains a dinosaur garden to keep the children happy.

The gate by which visitors enter is grand enough but…
…it doesn’t match the splendour of the ‘town’ gate

The town has several hotels and makes a good base to explore further afield; Oxford with its universities is only 15 miles away and there are numerous villages and National Trust properties and gardens to visit within the area.  For keen hikers two long-distance trails, the Wychwood Way (36 miles) and Shakespeare’s Way (146 miles) pass through the town and, as in most of England, numerous public footpaths criss-cross the countryside where you can roam freely. Walking is one of the best ways to see the Cotswolds and it is great exercise too. All the footpaths connect with one another so you can easily take shorter walks but, if you have the time, it is possible to walk from one end of England to the other!

The almshouses in Woodstock built in 1798

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[If you would like specific details of any aspect of staying locally and/or walking routes, places to visit, etc please feel free to contact me and I will do my best to answer your queries]

Sources: 
Wikipedia The Long Distance Walkers Association  Cotswolds.info                                                                                                                      The Making of the English Landscape, W G Hoskins