A Good Walk Home

Both my partner and I like walking but, more often than not, we walk alone.  Somehow it just works out like that and there is no doubt about it, that when you walk without company you do see and hear so much more.  It isn’t that we chatter away non-stop – we’ve been together for  far too long for that!!  It’s just that with no-one to speak to, or alongside, one becomes far more aware of all that’s around you.  And with only the sound from one pair of walking boots the wild creatures are less aware or concerned of your presence.

Walking quietly it’s possible to get quite close to wildlife

Usually, from necessity, our walks are circular – either back to the car or back to the house if we’ve started from home.  Recently I cadged a lift to Duns Tew, just outside the Cotswolds but still in Oxfordshire and not that far from home and the secret valley.  The village is an interesting mix of houses and makes use of their local ironstone as well as the Cotswold limestone.  I find it fascinating knowing that I live on the edge of two quite different rock formations, 0ne literally as hard as iron and the other, soft and easily worked.  The photo below shows the pretty church built of yellow ironstone and banded with paler limestone – a familiar pattern in the locality.

The thousand year-old Church of St Mary Magdalen, Duns Tew

The houses vary in style and age as well as building materials.  Some have thatched roofs; others slate and some stone tiles.  The traditional village pub has a stone tile roof made from Cotswold stone split into thin tiles.  Just to confuse the unknowing, these tiles are known locally as slates even though they are not made of slate!  The craft of making these roof tiles is centuries old – they have even been found by archaeologists when excavating Roman villas (of which there are quite a few in the Cotswolds) which means the manufacture of them has remained unchanged for the best part of two thousand years.  The pub also has a drystone garden wall, also made from Cotswold stone for which it is so ideal and makes such a memorable feature of the Cotswold Hills.

Village houses: contrasting style and stonework. The thatched house was built in the early 1600s. There are a number of these old signposts still standing locally
The village pub: this dates from the late 1600s. Note the stone ‘slate’ roof

One of the great things about walking in England is that we have a huge network of public footpaths, many of which date back to pre-history.  Now that I realise (thanks to my overseas readers) that being able to walk across privately-owned land by right is almost unique I intend to write specifically about them at a later date.  Suffice to say here, is that it is possible to walk from one end of the country to the other over thousands of miles of paths that must not, by ancient law, be obstructed.  This path is beautifully maintained by the owner. Just outside the village, partly hidden in undergrowth, were the remains of old pony carts.

A well-maintained public right of way that is also a driveway to the owner’s house
Half-hidden at the back of a semi-derelict shed

The path opened onto cornfields, the wheat harvested and the remaining stubble giving a real autumnal look to the countryside.  The hedgerow is also offering its autumnal fruits for the picking – crab apples, elderberries and blackberries; the sloes although looking good won’t be ready to collect until after the first frosts.  The squirrels have taken all the hazelnuts (you have to be quick to get them before they do – but already the embryo catkins, the male flowers, are beginning to appear.  It will be early February before they show the familiar ‘lamb’s tails’ that release clouds of yellow pollen with the slightest breeze.

The path is now gras covered passes ‘twixt hedgerow and cornfield
Crab apples, blackberries, elderberries. Tiny catkins are just forming amongst the blackberries

Although the path, now a wider track, looks obstructed here, the farmer/landowner has to leave the gate unlocked so that people on foot or on horseback can pass.  Crossing the lane it returns to being a path, this time skirting a large wood.  Now hidden by high hedgerows in the spring when the leaves are all bare, the woodland floor is carpeted with bluebells.  In the centre of the field is a stand of mature oaks.  Why were they left there?  For me, they always have a mystical look about them; stepping into their midst the atmosphere changes as if its centuries old story is being told to those that might listen.  Perhaps it’s just my imagination but the fancy is palpable.

As this is a public right of way, one of the gates must be kept unlocked by law
The copse in the middle of the fieldwas it once a sacred site?

Once again the path changes character.  Now a track crossing a small stream, the movement of a young coot searching for food catches my eye and we watch one another for a while before it decides that food is far more important than me.  At such close range I see it snatch a small water beetle before it disappears into the undergrowth.  For a while the path becomes woodland again and then opens up onto a concrete track.  The concrete is all that remains of a WW2 airfield, far inland to be out of the range of German bombers.  I stop to listen and am met with silence.  How different the scene would have been eighty years ago.

The baby coot carried on about its business…
The old wartime concrete paths make easy walking

Finally back home.  Being an Englishman through and through (if you ignore the foreign bits of me!) I sit on the old stone bench in the garden with a refreshing cup of tea and lean back against the walls of our own stone-built house built 170 years ago.  Looking out beyond the garden I can’t help feeling how privileged I am to be seeing the best views of the whole walk!

Not too bad a view from home!

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Far from the Madd(en)ing Crowd

The title of this blog is actually rather a misnomer for the picturesque village of East Hendred is, in reality, quite close to both London and Oxford.  Nestling at the foot of the Berkshire Downs, its charm and ancient houses give it the appearance of a place far from civilisation and today’s frenetic pace of life.

East Hendred (13) copyright

East Hendred (9) copyright

A traditional English village centres around the ‘big house,’ the pub and the church and East Hendred can boast that its manor has been owned by the same family, the Eystons, for over six hundred years.  It has three pubs thereby bucking the trend in recent years of the many pub closures elsewhere that often sees the social heart of a community destroyed.East Hendred (18) copyright

East Hendred (2) copyright

There has been a village shop for very many years for a book published in 1922 (English Country Life & Work by  Ernest C. Pulbrook) shows it in a photograph.  Today, the shop is still “thriving and well-accustomed” although it is doubtful if it now sells the wooden hay rakes that are lined up outside on the early photo!  The building has remained unchanged over the years although the village changed allegiance in 1974 and is now in the county of Oxfordshire.  The shop is easily recognisable in my photograph as being at the far end of the row.East Hendred (1) copyright

East Hendred 1(a)

The church, dedicated to St Augustine of Canterbury, dates from the late twelfth century although its tower is later, built around 1450.  East Hendred (17) copyright

East Hendred (21) copyright

At the other end of the village is the former Chapel of Jesus of Bethlehem also built around 1450 by Carthusian monks.  Now known as Champs Chapel, it houses a small museum dedicated to the history of the village.  It is opened and maintained by volunteers.

East Hendred (6) copyright

Despite its historic past, the parish of East Hendred which is crossed by the ancient Ridgeway path (now a National Trail) is also firmly fixed in the modern day for it also houses the Harwell Science and Innovation Centre where the Diamond Syncrotron Facility is located.

East Hendred (16) copyright

 

In the Footsteps of the Danes

In 858AD Hubba the Dane invaded England to be defeated by the Saxons at the Battle of Arx Cynuit. Recorded in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles by Asser, biographer of King Alfred the Great, the site of the battle it is thought took place at Countisbury, a tiny clifftop community on Exmoor. Whether true or fanciful, a walk to Wind Hill hillfort* is well worth the effort. It is a place where it is possible to experience all the elements that Exmoor offers in one glorious 360 degree panoramic view.

Countisbury copyright

All the best English country walks should start and end at a pub and there are plenty of options to choose on this one. Mine started from the Blue Ball Inn at Countisbury which is as welcoming now as it was when I first crossed its threshold fifty years earlier.

Blue Ball (2) copyright

Turning left from the pub, walk down the road for a few yards before entering a gate to National Trust land, also on the left and the starting point of several extensive walks. Our destination is a short walk and is the high point close to the road. The path to the fort is well defined and grass covered; it merges with a field access track that leads gently uphill to its entrance. The second photograph below is taken from the fort: the pub is the white building.Wind Hill (9) copyrightWind Hill (5) copyright

The fort is a rare example of a promontory fort where the natural landscape has been adapted to create the defences. The coastal cliffs which form its northern defence are the highest in England rising to over 300 metres, to the west and south the East Lyn River has cut a deep gorge. Where necessary double ramparts were built to defend the weaker areas: at the entrance they still rise, after two thousand years or more, to an impressive thirteen metres.

Wind Hill (10) copyrightWind Hill (2) copyright

Although it is possible to make Wind Hill part of a longer walk I prefer not to do this. It is rare to meet anyone else here and to be able to explore the 85 acre site in splendid isolation gives a real feel of the place. Just spend time enjoying the silence,  lying down with your back propped against the ramparts listening to the wind and sheep calling.  As mentioned earlier, the views from the fort are magnificent: heather moorland, ancient woodland, hills, villages, sea, cliffs, the distant coast of Wales as well as wild creatures, ranging from the iconic red deer to seabirds and butterflies.

Wind Hill (8) copyright

 

* also known as Countisbury Castle

 

 

Links:

Historic England

The Megalithic Portal

Exmoor National Park

The Blue Ball Inn